Arabesque: Blog en-us (C) Arabesque (Arabesque) Thu, 28 Dec 2017 13:57:00 GMT Thu, 28 Dec 2017 13:57:00 GMT Arabesque: Blog 120 120 Announcement for Commissions 2018 Effective starting now and through the year 2018 I will no longer be accepting new commissions or special orders.  If we have a commission planned or we have talked about one, I will still happily honor those plans.  My goal is to be completely caught up and order free by June 2018 so that I might start dedicating some more of my time to my real horses and for exploring other model horse hobby medias such as painting, sculpting, customizing, etc...

This announcement does not mean that I won't be offering pieces to sell, or even making less tack, quite the contrary is my goal.  I currently offer show ring, native and dancing horse style costumes but I have plans to expand into making and offering Akhal Teke, Marwari, Moroccan, and camel costumes.  I will also likely offer a few mini costumes for sale to fit the mini Rose Khemosabi mold.

My decision to stop accepting special orders wasn't an easy one to make, but I hope it will allow me to grow more as an artist and work more efficiently.  In fact, I love making things for people, I've always had a tough time saying "no" when asked.  I do have many costumes I want to make and sell, along with some smaller pieces (halters and presentation sets).  What I will probably do, which has been working out well for me already, is offer some costumes as "pre-sales" or "adoptable".  Selling pre-finished costumes will allow my customers the opportunity to choose the size of the bridle and collar so that it can still be made to fit a favorite horse.  All pieces will be 100% artist's choice, but some input may still be considered on pre-finished pieces.

Thank you to all who have bought tack from me, for all who support and follow my work.  My goal is to continue to sell pieces that will delight you.  Despite this announcement please don't hesitate to contact me if you see photos pop up on my page of something you would really like.  I am prone to allowing customers to call "dibs" on pieces in progress that they see and like.  I also don't want anyone to feel like they will miss out so if there is something in particular you would like, give me a shout, or even send photos!  There is no guarantee I will get to making it but this way if I make something I think meets your wish list I will contact you first!  Don't be afraid to call "dibs"!  

Wishing You All A Happy 2018!

Happy Collecting Everyone!

Missy Halvas :)

]]> (Arabesque) Thu, 28 Dec 2017 13:57:38 GMT
How-to: Make Your Own Tiny Jumprings How-to:

Make Your Own Tiny Jumprings

(Photo above shows an example of some hand-made jump rings put to good use!)

At some point while making miniature Arabian tack or maybe even some other kinds of tack you will probably run into the issue of trying to hang or attach a piece with a tiny jumpring only to have it catch at the hole.  This often happens to me when I'm putting Rio Rondo charms on the nose chains of halters or working with Arabian horse jewelry.  I will take the tiniest jumprings I have purchased and still find the need to ream holes out of those charms with my beading reamer, because the jumprings won't thread through.  This can be a frustrating, time consuming process.  The other thing I run into is most times my favorite tiny jumprings are a little too big for some of these pieces and in order to get the most "in-scale" look, I should be using a smaller size.

What I have come up with for myself is I prefer to make my own tiny jumprings.  There are several things I like about using these: 1) I have yet to come across a situation where they won't go through any of the Rio Rondo hardware I use. 2) They are more cost efficient to make yourself 3) I can make them in a size and gauge that is nearly impossible to find for an affordable price.

If you're going to be stringing a lot of charms I recommend giving this a try, it's pretty easy once you get the hang of it.  It does take a little practice to get it down.  I've found that I can do about 50 of these in 20 minutes.

Let's get to it!


1) Two pairs of small needle nose pliers (whatever you prefer)

2) Wire cutter

3) T-pin

4) Small container (I use small bead containers)

5) 26 gauge wire in silver or gold

For pliers use something small, preferably designed for jewelry making.  This is a look at my most favorite pliers in the entire world!  They are small, lightweight and have teeth.

This is my second favorite pliers in the world.  These aren't anything too special.  They are slightly smaller than my red pair and these don't have the teeth.  Sometimes when using two pliers at once I find that these will slip, however I put up with it because at times I need the smooth surface verus the teeth.  You don't have to use the same kind of pliers I'm using here, just make sure you have two pairs and stick to what works best for you!

This is the wire I'm using.  This is a 26 gauge "Zebra Wire" that I've purchased from Fire Mountain Gems.  If you've never visited this website, do it!  You can spend hours on there looking at all the stuff they have, it's amazing!  Back to the wire...this wire is a jewelry making wire and I bought it because it has a finish on it that is supposed to be more tarnish resistant.  It is important that anytime you are buying metals for your work that you try to buy quality stuff because most jewelry making metals, in my experience, will inevitably tarnish with time.  You will give your piece more life if you don't skimp on your quality.  Silver finishes are most challenging.  Anything that is silver plated, or sterling will darken with age, I've found this to be true with the gold plate items as well.  It is rarely possible to get these items in a finish that will stand the test of time so keep that in mind!

The gauge of the wire is very important here.  I'm making jump rings here that end up being about 2mm in size.  26 gauge is a lot thinner and smaller than most jump rings out there that you can buy.  A lot of the smallest jump rings are 22-24 gauge and that often ends up being just a touch too thick to be consistently convenient for the small stuff.  However, different sizes and gauges of jumprings come in handy for different things.  Larger gauge jump rings, and larger sizes can make a connection more secure because they are stronger.  So these little ones I'm showing you how to make are more for detail-type work, but I don't recommend them for everything you do!  Once you've worked with a wire a little you will see what I mean, this wire is soft and can't bear a lot of weight or tension.

Start by cutting a piece of wire to about 12 inches in length.  Grab your T-pin and hold the wire and pin head between your fingers.

While holding the wire and pin snug in your fingers wrap the wire into a tight coil down the length of the pin until you run out of wire.  I wrap until it's no longer comfortable.  It is okay to have a tail hanging up at the end.

Silde your coil off your T-pin.

Gently pull your coil apart trying to keep it as evenly spaced as possible.  When I do this I hook a fingernail into the outermost coils on either side and just pull.  Get the coils about 1/8 inch apart.  You won't want these pulled too far apart, but far enough that your wire cutter can get in between the coils to cut the rings.

Cut one end off your coil like this to get your rings started.  Hold your coil vertically and look at where your first cut is.  To make your first jump ring, you'll want to aim your next cut just below your last cut mark, but slightly beyond.  I find that by going slightly beyond instead of exactly below allows me to close the ring more easily instead of having to pull it outward and then close it, or having to push it in if it end up with a gap.

Cut each ring like this one at a time.  Pause as you cut each one and let it fall into a little pile in front of you.  Another thing I found helpful by accident while making this tutorial is I've got just a plain white piece of paper down while I'm working.  These are much easier to see on that white surface!

Once you have cut all your rings pick one up with a pliers on one side like this.  We are now going to close the rings.  For this part pick up a pliers in each hand and gently twist the jump ring together.  I then like to take and give the top a little pinch horizontally pinching the ends together a bit, and then I go vertically up and down and give a little pinch to smooth down any sharp pointy parts sticking up.  Getting the cut and the closing of the rings just right might take a little practice.  Don't be discouraged if when you first start out that 1 in 3 of these turns into a dud, just keep making batches to practice and soon you'll be cranking these suckers out without even thinking!  Use very gentle pressure when handling these, 26 gauge wire is very soft and doesn't need a lot of force to be molded into shape!

Here's what a finished ring looks like.  These end up being about 2mm in size.  This close-up you can see one of my little "crimp" marks in the ring from pinching the ends flush together.

If you have any rings that end up kitty-wopus in shape take and lay them in a flat pliers or a toothless spot on your pliers and give them a press to flatten them out.

I like to store these in a little beading container.  I drop them in there as I close them!  I've figured out that I can make about 50 of these in 20 minutes.  The coil I made for this demo was about 11 inches in length and made 44 jump rings.  I imagine that going a whole 12 inches would easily give you 50 or more rings per coil.

This is busy work!  It's something great to do in front of the TV or while listening to your favorite music.  Make a couple batches up and store them so that when you get to the fun part of your work you can just grab them and put your work together!

I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial!  Feel free to drop me an email with any questions or suggestions on future tutorials!  Also sign the guestbook if you would like and let me know what you think!

Thanks For Reading & Happy Collecting Everyone!

Missy Halvas :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Tue, 10 Jan 2017 12:00:00 GMT
Arabesque Is On Facebook!

Arabesque is now on Facebook!  Be sure to visit and like my page to follow the most current updates on new sales pieces, and see in-progress shots of new costumes!  Here is the link:

I wanted to be sure to blog this information because I've just recently gotten into Facebook and have tried it for a few months now.  I've figured out that it is easier and quicker for me to post updates and photos of what is going on in the studio there instead of here.  The good thing about this is it will give me more time to work on tack versus trying to keep a detailed website updated.  I will still update my website, just not as quickly.  So my website will be used more for showing pictures and complete information on new pieces, tutorials, and more lengthy stuff.  Progress pictures and sales pieces are going to now be showing up on facebook first!

Thanks For Reading!  Happy Collecting Everyone!

(Pictured above is an "in-progress" shot of my first Dancing Horse Costume that I'm working on.  This set belongs to my friend Diane Finazzo.  Watch it progress along on Facebook!)

Melissa :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Mon, 08 Aug 2016 21:55:08 GMT
Tutorial: How-To Make Basic Cowries For Model Horse Scale Native Arabian Tack Tutorial #3: How-To Make Basic Cowries For Model Horse Scale Native Arabian Tack!

In this week's tutorial I will show you how to make a basic model horse scale cowrie design for native Arabian tack.  The nice thing about mastering this basic design is you can do so much with it.  I promise if you give this a try, you will figure out how to do even more with this all by yourself!  I think just about every Arabian tack maker develops their own method of doing this with time.  I don't claim to be the best at it, but I have done it A LOT! (...TOO MUCH...) Cowries are actually what I consider the *groan* part of tack making but they are a necessary icing on an Arabian cake, therefore like usual, I'm going to ask you to get your patience out for this and no matter what remember that *it's fun*!!!

A few basic things before we get started.  I typically use Sculpey clay for my cowries, it is an oven bake clay that comes in many many beautiful colors.  The colors you will need to get started depend on your project, however if you're going to start a stash I recommend grabbing the basics.  Get your primary colors: blue, yellow, red, black, white...  You can mix these colors just like you would paints to get custom colors so if you can't find a color you need don't worry--you can make it!

For those unfamiliar with Sculpey, it a lovely thing!  One of the main reasons it's so lovely?  It lasts forever! I'm not kidding...years and years without drying out.  I've never thrown Sculpey away, and I don't think I've ever had to buy more than one block of the same color either.  For a work surface to bake my clay on, I prefer to use a glass plate that is bake-able in the oven.  I think most dinner plates can tolerate this but be careful.  Mine happens to be white and is actually something I rescued from the garbage of all places!

In the first photo you can see my glass plate with my mixed up colors.  I matched these colors to the embroidery floss that I used on my presentation set that these cowries will be for.  The second photo is just a picture of the bottom of my plate to show you what it is.  I don't think it's anything super special.  One thing I like about having a solid white plate to work on is it's a clean "non-busy" surface to create on, almost like a blank sheet of paper.  I can imagine if I had a loudly decorated plate I would probably be distracted and get a headache...well, I usually get a headache anyway!


I would like to say a quick word about Microbeads.  First of all, what they are very often used for, is to make the little bead/ball shapes on cowrie designs.  They add a really nice touch of color and detail.  As you can see I'm a bit of an addict, and here is a photo of part of my collection.  I will never have too many as long as there is another color I find that I don't have.  These are most commonly found in either a scrapbooking section of a craft store under "microbeads or micro marbles".  They are also commonly used for fingernails and are known as a "caviar manicure".  You can search these on ebay under "caviar beads for nails".  They are also used for jewelry designs and can be found in jewelry supply sections of stores or online.  There is a really nice starter kit of these that you can get from Michaels, it is the "Martha Stewart" brand but they come in like a pack of 18 tubes?  I've also recently scored a few collections of tiny tubs on ebay in the nail section.  Just do some searching and you will find them.  They also come in different sizes.  Some are very tiny and some are a little larger.  If you plan to make these a lot try to find both sizes.  Often times the bigger ones work nice as a center accent while the little ones fill in nicely around other areas.

Continuing on then!

Two of my favorite supplies for this project are a tub of a sticky wax that I purchased from Rio Rondo and a long wooden cuticle stick.  A cuticle stick is something you find in a nail supply section.  Each end of my stick has a flat edge to it.  The tool you use isn't that important as long as it works for you, this just happens to be my favorite pick up tool no matter what I am making.  I use one end of this stick to pick up tiny micro beads and the other end to tap them in place.  So one end of my stick is marked with an X, that is my "sticky" end.  The non-marked end is my not sticky end that I do not dip in the wax but use to tap objects into place as needed!

Step 1:  Get started by getting your cowrie base color out and roll a small ball to get the approximate size your cowries should be.

Step 2:  To test out the size of your ball gently tap the ball down into more of a flat circle.  Use gentle movements when handling cowries.  You don't want to leave your fingerprints all over your work!

I've decided this one is about the right size so I roll it back into a ball...

Then roll out several balls for however many cowries you want and try to make them as close to the size of the ball you originally made.

Once you get your sizing down roll one away and gently tap it into place with your finger.  I like to work on a plate with my hand in center and my work on the outside of the plate headed in a circle.  Makes for less of a chance of accidentally squishing one!  If your clay will not stick to your plate take your white or lightest clay and rub it along the surface of the plate to make a greasy smear.  I call this "seasoning" the plate, then you can get that clay to not stick to your finger and stick to the plate instead.

Tada!  A nice row...

Step 2:  Now you're going to make your actual cowries.  Before you touch white clay make sure you wash your fingers thoroughly.  Anytime I handle red or a darker color it never fails to transfer onto the white clay, and be ready if you handle red, it is the hardest color to get off your fingers! 

For the cowrie part I like to use straight white.  I've tried flesh tone colors, even more see-through varieties of clay and the plain white shows the detail the best so far in my opinion, so for me I like to use white.  I take and pinch one end of the clay down nice and pointy!

Then gently roll out the tiniest little oval shape.  This may take some practice and several attempts to get each one the right size.  Go as small as you can.  Think about my little red circles as a base for a flower, and the cowries are the petals.  I need to fit four petals onto my base so I don't want them too big, or hanging off the edges.

Now you can see I've gotten one laid down on there.  And I go around to each cowrie and give each one a first petal...

Each one has a first petal....

Then go directly across from your first petal on each one turning your plate as you do and lay down your second petals...

Then halfway between the first two to make a third petal, and finally your fourth...

Step 3:  Pick out a center color.  Another tip here that I will point out is if you plan to use yellow in your design try to do it in clay.  Maybe you'll have better luck that me but I have never had any luck finding yellow so I almost always incorporate it into my designs with clay instead of microbeads.  Once you pick out your center color, just roll out tiny little balls and set them right into the centers of your little cowrie flowers.  Mine look like daisies!

Step 4:  Next you will want to set your microbeads into your design.  I take and get one end of my stick a bit tacky by tapping it into my wax.  Don't use to much that you get your beads gunky, the perfect amount of stickiness is just when it will pick up a bead and hold it long enough for you to easily sink it into the clay.  If your beads won't let go of your stick rub some off with your fingers.  I use an additional plate I have and just dump some little beads onto it, sometimes a paper plate or even a plastic lid to something works great for these!

Start by placing beads on the outside of your design, leave the center for last...

Here you can see I set my first bead in place.  This is the part where I flip my stick over to the non-sticky side as I'm doing this and gently tap that bead down a bit and into place.  You don't have to completely sink these into the clay, but you want them about halfway sunk to get them to stay.  On your last step, sealing these will help the beads stay put.

There we go, there's all my outside beads in blue!

Step 5:  For detailing I like to use a needle or a pin.  This is just a basic sewing pin with a ball on the end of it.  I like to take and just make a little "dapple" or divot into the center of each cowrie with it first.  What this does is it will give that center bead a gentle ditch to rest in and it kind of pushes the cowrie petals together underneath your center clay color.

Just go through and tap each one until you give each one just a nice little dimple!

Before you switch colors you'll want to clean up your beads.  The easiest way I find to clean these up is to use my finger.  Just press down on them until they stick to your fingers and scrape them on the edge of your tub of beads to clean them up.

Step 6:  Dump out your center color.  For this set I'm using silver.  And now I'm going to go along and just press a silver bead into each cowrie center, flipping my stick over to tap each one down into place before moving on to the next.

There they are, all beads are set and you're ready for some detailing!

Step 7:  For the detailing part I take my needle, holding it angled away from my work, and gently press each petal in the center to make the cowrie.  You can get even more detailed here if you want by drawing in little "cowrie teeth" with your needle by holding it the other way.  For this set I chose to keep them plain, sometimes when I make actual teeth, things get messy!

Step 8:  For baking these your temperatures may vary according to what kind of oven you have.  I have just a regular electric Fridgidaire glass top oven.  I preheat my oven to 275 degrees and bake my cowries for about 14 minutes.  The thing with working with clay pieces this small is they don't need quite as long as a larger piece of clay would.  You don't want to under bake them or they will crumble apart, and if you over bake them they will scorch and turn brown and you have every right to cry!  I've done it a million times!  Make sure you set a timer and do not let yourself get distracted while these are in the oven!  I've done it so many times and probably still will in the future...

Step 9:  Let your cowries cool completely, and then seal them.  For sealer I've found it is best to stick with the Sculpey brand.  This is the one I use.  I just take a small paint brush and paint it on.  Don't use too much or it can dry bubbly looking.  Also don't be alarmed as you paint this onto your designs it will go on a milky color, but it does dry clear so just breathe!  I didn't illustrate how this batch looked with the glaze because unfortunately this batch did not survive.  The center bead color actually rubbed off to a plain clear bead color when I applied of the many possible tragedies of cowrie making!

Some people even take these before they seal and paint the centers of their cowries with a nude color to give them even more depth and realism!  Try it out, do experiment, and find out what works best for you!

And that's all there is to it!  Once you get the hang of this clay you can make so many different variations of cowries for your tack!  To glue them onto your work I recommend using super glue.  My favorite is the "gel control" in the blue and gray bottle.  This will get those little suckers to hold forever.  I use my same pick up sticky stick to pick the cowries up and set them.  I place a blob of glue on a paper plate or sticky note and use a toothpick to place dots of glue on my work, then set the cowries so I don't overuse the glue.

I also recommend making extras of every set you make.  You may have some that turn out better than others, and you may accidentally break a few while setting them or working on your tack.  It's also a nice gesture if you're selling tack to make some extras to send along with the sales of your pieces in case something falls off or breaks.  Below I've included a few examples of some that I've done...

I hope you've enjoyed this tutorial and find it helpful!  Get to practicing and as soon as I can I will do another tutorial on some more possible design ideas to try on your work!  

As always thanks for reading and happy collecting everyone!

Melissa Halvas :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Tue, 02 Aug 2016 22:39:22 GMT
Tutorial: How-to make mini poms poms Tutorial #2:

How to make mini pom poms for model horse tack

Pom Poms are incredibly popular on real Arabian horse tack!  They can also be found on tack intended for other breeds, one that comes to mind instantly is Marwari as an example.  What I'm going to show you today is an easy method that I've developed for making attractive multi-colored pom poms.  Pictured above is just an example of some creations I've made using this technique!  

Let's get started!

For supplies you will need embroidery floss, a nice sharp scissor, a cup of water, and some super glue.  For super glue I prefer the "gel control" in the blue and gray bottle.  I use this for nearly everything small in tack making that needs a tough, quick drying hold!  

Decide how many pom poms you want to make and cut some embroidery floss into sections.  These are roughly 8 inches long?  Each section of embroidery floss has six tiny strands in it, and we will use individual strands to tie our pom poms.  Here I've cut 3 strands because I'm going to make a big batch of pom poms.  I tend to screw some of these up, or they don't come out as uniform as I like, so I will make a bunch and pick and choose which ones are the keepers at the end!

Here's my individual strand.  To get it ready I dip my fingers in the water and wet the strand down to straighten it, then lay it down flat on my work surface.

Determine what color or colors your pom poms will be.  For mine I am doing a mint-y turquoise and purple mix.  Mine will have purple centers, and the turquoise color will be the outside color.  I will need more of the outside color and I'm going to cut that first.  For this part I wrap embroidery floss around two fingers 6 times to make 12 pieces. (This wrapping over two fingers is also the same method I use for tassels)

Slide your fingers out and snip the threads at the top and bottom to make your stack of threads.

So here is my stack of 12, in this case the "outside" color.

For the inside color I just use 2 pieces of purple.

First lay your center color down over your thread.  Place it off to the side of the stack.  What this will do is leave enough room to make two pom poms out of this stack.  Next, lay your outside color over the top.

Double knot your thread and then pull both strands to the "bottom" of the stack, so your knot faces away from your center color.

Repeat these steps on the other side of your stack to make it look kind of like a piece of candy!

Cut on either side of your threads leaving a little fringe to either side.  Now you have two pieces of candy!

I like to round my edges off a bit.

Now pull your string down between your thumb and pointer finger and gently start to squeeze the edges of your piece of candy together to get the shape forming.  Take your super glue and put the tiniest dot of glue right in the center.  You don't need very much.  If you use too much it will ooze out the top and you will glue your fingers together....I've done this!

Now squish!  And roll, roll, roll that pom pom into shape!  Get that glue to set!  It doesn't take long at all, that glue grabs pretty instantly and then you're able to start trimming.  Now pretend you are trimming a tiny hedge and trim, trim trim your little bush!

Here you can see I trimmed at a sharp angle.

Cut straight across the top and poke the pom pom down with your finger.  There really is no right or wrong method to trimming these down.  Figure out what works best for you.  You can make these smaller if you want.  I should note that for the ones I've been making, I've been doing them about the width of my headstalls on my native halters.

Cute aren't they?  It takes practice to get these how you want.  I recommend doing a big batch for fun and pick your favorites to put on your tack.  Also getting the mix of colors just right is tricky.  As you can see in this second photo that purple goes wherever it feels like.  Can you see using even more colors, or just one color?  Making them even smaller and cuter?  See what you can do, and feel free to show me!  

For attaching I recommend gluing them onto your tack.  I thread them through a needle first, and pull the needle through my work to get them placed where I want them.  Then I take a small dot of super glue on the bottom of the knot and using the threads I pull the pom pom into place until it set.  I then sew and knot those threads into place a back up so these little buggers will never come off!

And because while working with this color combination I couldn't think of anything but Sulley from the movie "Monster's Inc."....

I hope you found this tutorial helpful!  Let me know what you think by commenting on the blog or drop me an email!  Let me know what other tutorials you would like to see!  Below I've shared more examples of native tack I've made using this technique!

Melissa Halvas :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Tue, 05 Jul 2016 13:00:00 GMT
"Carnival" Native Presentation Set

This is a new presentation set that I just finished up.  I call this one "Carnival" in honor of this years Breyerfest 2016 theme.  The fun mix of colors used (red, turquoise, royal blue and yellow) remind me of the fun and bright colors you would see at a carnival.   This one isn't adjustable so it will only fit models with a very similiar or smaller head size.  This is a native themed set that was specially made to fit the Weathergirl mold.  The set also fits Ashquar, but it is too small for the PSA.

The most standout feature on this set is the "Egyptian" style webbing that I did on the collar.  I had to be real inventive with my technique to make this work and it's safe to say I'm hooked!  

(The lighting was so off in this photo above that the red kind of looks coral, I decided to add it because I think it looks cool and I now think I need to intentionally do one in coral and blue!)

Thanks for Reading and Happy Collecting!

Melissa :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Sat, 25 Jun 2016 11:40:16 GMT
Red Native Arabian Costume Red Native Arabian Model Horse Costume

Here is a new costume that I just finished up this week.  This is a native style done in vibrant red, accented with old gold and a seafoam green.  I made this one to fit the Peter Stone Arabian but it is adjustable in size, as you can see it does fit my Bint Nazeem resin and she is fairly large.  Lots of details on this set, so I will break it down by part and go through each one.  There are six pieces in all to this set: Bridle, Halter, Collar, Saddle, Girth, and Girth Strap.


The halter and bridle are two separate pieces, allowing the halter and collar to be used separately as a presentation set.  The bridle is a separate piece that has an adjustable headstall, D-ring snaffle bit, and reins and it is meant to be worn beneath the halter when in use.  The reins are one piece, and they have a sliding bead that allows you to easily gather the reins at the horse's neck for showing if needed.  The reins have a decorative tassels accent that you can slide around; the point of this piece is not only for decoration but it will keep the sliding bead from falling off the reins.  The bridle does require the use of sticky wax to hold it into place.  The halter features an adjustable headstall with a buckle to size up or down.  The throat lash is not detachable, but has a sliding bead that allows you to loosen or tighten it.  The lead line is detachable and I have done it up in a decorative slip knot that you can loosen or tighten around the horse's neck without undoing it.  However, the knot isn't permanent and may be undone if desired, I will leave it knotted in case the new owner finds it easier.  Lead ropes are typically tied around the horse's neck on native costumes when not in use.  The halter is heavily decorated in hand made cowrie shell designs, silky red tassels, and a gold tone triple chain with tiny shark teeth.  The halter has been lined to improve longevity.


The girth strap attaches to the back of the collar with a small hook, but when detached the collar can be used for presentation.  The collar ties to two rings at the front of the saddle as is typically done with real native Arabian costumes.  There are three sets of ties on each side of the collar.  When you tie the collar to the saddle, only loop the top set through, the bottom two sets are meant to hang down decoratively.  Like the halter the collar is also heavily decorated in matching hand made cowries, and silky red tassels.  The ends of all the ropes on this set are also very detailed, wrapped in multiple collars and adorned with tassels.  See photos below to see what these ropes look like.  The collar has been lined to improve longevity.


The saddle is heavily decorated in two rows of red silk tassels.  Hand embroidered accents have been added to the pattern of the drape to bring out the richness of the colors used.  The seat is covered in a matching red velvet and is also hand embroidered in a newer pattern I just came up with that was inspired by a real costume.  As mentioned above there are a set of rings on the front of the saddle for the collar to attach to, and then there are a set in the back that hold a set of ropes that match the collar.  The stirrups are english style with black treds, and are attached beneath the saddle as is traditional for these costumes.  They are attached with black leather lace straps which have been hand thinned and are adjustable in length with buckles.  The girth is completely detachable and attaches to the underside of the drape with velcro located on either side of the saddle.  The girth strap itself loops around the girth and adjusts in length via sliding beads and it attaches to the back of the collar.  The drape also has a wire frame to allow you to bend it easily to the shape of the horse.  The underside of the drape is completely lined to protect the model from scratches.  

This set is easily one of my most favorite pieces I've made yet!

Thanks for reading and happy collecting everyone!

Melissa Halvas :0)

*Arabesque* Model Horse Creations

]]> (Arabesque) Mon, 06 Jun 2016 01:47:14 GMT
New Arabian Horse Jewelry Set Turquoise and Silver Turquoise & Silver Arabian Horse Jewelry Set

My newest creation is an Arabian horse jewelry presentation set that I started last year.  I randomly picked this one back up after finding some crafting pieces in my stash that I thought would look great with this set, and then inspiration set in!  The design is much like the original "Green Hearts" set I did last year, and the lighter blue star one.  These sets were inspired by a reference photo I have of a real Arabian horse set, saved from pinterest:

While the design of this set was influenced by this real photo, the elements and colors used all had to be decided by me, lending the final piece to be a unique and very original creation.  One of the fun challenges of working in model scale and making something like this modeled after life size, is finding parts small enough to stay in scale.  Most of the time the pieces I find are not made specifically for model horse tack.  As part of my tack making hobby I constantly search and think of how something I see or find could be used on model horse tack.  Then after I find piecse to use, many hours are spent just trying to figure out the best arrangement of the pieces so that they will compliment, rather than overwhelm the face of the horse.  Most of the charms on this set were hand made, and some of them three times over before I got the exact look I was going for.  I can honestly say this piece was another true labor of love--I detailed the hell out of it!  Now on to more of those details...

I've used real hand thinned leather lace at the back of the headstall, back of the collar and for the lead line on this piece.  Each of these pieces are adjustable in length with small buckles.  The strap ends are finished with tiny silver pieces.  The set was made to fit the Peter Stone Arabian but can size up or down a bit to fit models similar in size.  Due to the brow band it's not going to fit horses with a much broader face, or much narrower face or it won't hang right.  The headstall features a noseband with a double row of charms, which have been attached in a way that prevents any sort of frustrating tangles.  This layered look was inspired by a halter I've seen that has two rows of coins on the noseband, so on this halter I did two rows of charms.  

The largest stones on this set are an imitation turquoise.  There are then a mix of blues found in beads, tassels, and the tinier blue studs that I used to accent the entire top of the collar and sides of the headstall.  The mix of blue elements, combined with their silver counterparts ties the whole thing together.  My end goal was to create a collectible piece for someone's favorite collectible to wear!

I donated this presentation set to the 2016 NAN auction!

Thanks for looking & happy collecting everyone!

Melissa Halvas :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Fri, 13 May 2016 13:23:06 GMT
Reserve your Arabian native set today! 4 other colors to choose from!

I have four other native sets over half completed like the royal blue one I just listed for sale, these were listed in a previous blog as well.  I'm offering early reservations on these sets in case anybody sees a color that they like and would like any input on the finishing details.  All of theses sets have halter bases and collars completed, tassels are made and ready to sew on or are either already put on.  All the hardware on these sets is already set for silver, but I can do any charms wanted.  I had plans to do pom poms on all sets like I've done on the royal blue set, but if preferred I can do straight cowrie designs as well.  You can also have your choice of brow band.  Input is welcome or if no preference is given they will be completed similar to the way I've done the Royal blue set.  The royal blue set is currently completed and for sale, please visit my other ads to see it.  The orange set is the only one currently reserved, and is not available.  These are sized to the PSA, but all have adjustable buckles and can size up a bit to fit larger models.  Please look at the picture below for an idea of what the other colors look like, they are:

1. Green (accent colors are pink, yellow, and turquoise)

2. Red (accent colors are blue, green, and yellow)

3. Yellow (accent colors are red, purple, and turquoise)

4. Bright Blue (accent colors are red, orange, and yellow)

Each set takes a little over 15 hours of time to make so they are priced according to the hours and cost of supplies I have into them.  They are $150 each.  Price includes free first class shipping to U.S.  If you live outside the U.S. and want to purchase please contact me for a shipping quote. 

I do accept time payments.  Reserve a set of your choice for $50 down and pay $50 per month until paid off.  Or you may do half down, half upon completion or (within 30 days)  Your set will be ready to ship by the time you have paid it off or likely before.  The idea here is that these are nearly done and there is very little wait time to get a nice set!  I will complete these in the order that they are reserved!

Feel free to contact me with any questions and for more pictures of any of the colors or to hear what I have planned for details on any set, and remember it's not to late for you to choose what those details are either!

Thanks for reading and happy collecting everyone!

]]> (Arabesque) Mon, 18 Apr 2016 13:50:44 GMT
Royal Blue Native Pom-Pom Presentation Set Newly completed, a royal blue native style Arabian model horse presentation set with pom poms!  Now this is one that I had started when I first had my son back in August of 2015.  I started six presentation sets while I was on what you could call a "maternity leave" because during this time I was resting and adapting to my new role as "mom".  These tassels were all made with a baby on my lap!  This is the first of the six sets that I've finished up and it has set the pace for how the others will probably look.  I am close to finishing an orange one that is part of a trade for someone.  After that I will be finishing up a yellow, bright blue, emeral green, and a bright red.  The tassels are all made for these, including strung into tiers and either already put on these sets or in need of being sewn on, then it's just the finishing details like the chain charms, cowries, pom poms, wrapping of the ropes etc. that need to be done on each one.  

Now on to the details! This set is made to fit the PSA but it is adjustable with a buckle on the headstall so it will size up a bit to fit some larger models.  The throat lash tightens and loosens with a slider bead.  Lead line is detachable and is only tied around the horse's neck in these photos for modeling purposes, it is not permanently tied. 

The nose chain is heavily decorated with a variety of Rio Rondo charms, along with a few hand made colorful charms that are made to imitate the "egyptian eye", a charm that can be symbolic of warding off evil spirits.

Then of course the set is decorated with my newest favorite thing to make pom poms!  These ones are red with a splash of yellow.  I've also thrown in some hand made cowrie charms and more little egyptian eye type decorations throughout giving this set a highly decorative and delightfully textured effect.

Finally, all rope ends are wrapped in colorful threads, and topped off with even more tassels and beads.  The colors of this set are very rich in person.  The blue is a very bright royal blue, the vibrancy isn't quite captured in these photos.  The supporting colors are a mix of turquoise, bright red, and a golden yellow.  Finally the set is heavily accented with glints of silver all throughout.

Thanks for reading and happy collecting everyone!

Melissa :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Mon, 18 Apr 2016 01:20:47 GMT
Arabian Horse "Pectoral" Jewelry Set I've just completed this Arabian model horse pectoral jewelry set, one in which I am so proud of!  Before I say anything else I would like to share the link to the reference photo I used for the collar because I feel that I really nailed it:  It's a photo from one of the centerfolds off  I made this using some of Rio Rondo's newest pectoral pieces which I'm proud to say I got some input in designing which was super exciting for me!  I could not wait to try to make the collar from this reference photo, however the halter was lacking flavor so I came up with my own!

This set has been in the works for awhile now and I've just been dying to finish it, but it's been time consuming.  I easily put in over 20 hours of time getting this just the way I wanted it.  The thing with making Arabian horse jewelry is getting the fit just right.  On this particular set the chain I used is so super fine that I had to make most of my own jump rings to link all the tiny pieces together.  I also hand drilled holes into the collar links to make them fit this design.  

I sized the halter to fit larger resins such as ones sculpted by Vicki Keeling and Debbi Lermond.  It is shown on my Bint Nazeem resin.  It would be even better on a horse with a slightly raised head, the reason being that any time horses with tucked heads wear heavier headstalls with chains such as this one tend to hang down close to the horse's eyes pretty easily.  However, this can be adjusted using a tiny bit of sticky wax at the very base of the adjustable headstall strap.  If you pull the strap back a bit and stick your wax down in place it helps hold the chain back from the horse's eye.  The headstall is adjustable with a leather strap, but it is too large overall for the PSA.  If you have any questions about the fit feel free to ask!

The straps are made from super fine, hand thinned leather lace.  There is an adjustable strap at the headstall, and one at the back of the collar piece.  The lead line is detachable and also features a decorative buckle, just like what is seen on most real arabian halter leads.  The throat chain detaches on one side via a tiny hook which is easiest to put on with the help of a tweezers or small pliers.  All sharp parts have been hand filed to help protect your horse from scratching.  I've embellished the set with tons of tiny blue stones for a flattering pop of color, just like how it's seen in the reference photo.  There are tons and tons of tiny coins used in this set hanging from little charms.  It's hard to see in the photo but each coin is etched with amazing detail, another feature to really appreciate about Rio Rondo's newest casts!  It is truly a detailed, super dainty and in scale Arabian horse jewelry set, and I'm proud to say by far one of the finest things I've ever made.  It is a unique one-of-a-kind piece!  

Thanks for checking it out everyone!  Happy Collecting!

Melissa Halvas :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Wed, 13 Apr 2016 16:27:47 GMT
Trading costumes for resins! Slots filling up fast! I'm currently looking to expand my resin collection and I'm willing to make a custom made Arabian costume in exchange for nearly any traditional scale Arabian models by Debbi Lermond or Vicki Keeling.  I prefer unpainted, repaint quality, or haired models.  They can even be re-hair prospects because I happen to love to hair models.  This offer is good for an Arabian costume in traditional scale made in any colors you want.  I am not offering hand embroidered patterns at this time, however I do hand embroider accents into most of my designs.  

*2/4/16- Update:  Also looking for Wind Walker, Pasha, Optime, Raakid, Khemosabi, Nahar, Luxor, Indian Silver, Indian Fire....several others, feel free to ask or offer ones not listed here!

Non Arabians- looking for Eberls Rearing Akhal Teke and new standing Akhal Teke Mare

*2/6/16- Update:  I'm looking to take up to three Arabian costumes to work on right now.  I have one booked, and one pending, so I've for sure got one more spot open right now!


This ad will be updated as the booking process progresses along!  There's a chance to get your costume in time for the summer show season if you book your slot now!

]]> (Arabesque) Sat, 06 Feb 2016 17:56:28 GMT
New horse & halter! Here is a new halter I made last week that I wanted to share!  This is an example of a simpler version I can make of my native halters that is still striking!  Some of you know that recently I've been offering to trade halters and tack for various model horse bodies to work on.  This is an example of one that was made in exchange for a Huckleberry Bey body.  I am currently still offering tack in trade for various bodies so if this is something that would interest you feel free to contact me about it!

Yesterday was also a very happy friday when this lovely girl showed up at my door!  This is courtesy of a trade that I am currently doing.  I have decided to let my Lyla resin go to focus on more traditional scale items instead!  Now, what color should Joelle be is the question!  This is a shot of one of my work desks (I have one upstairs in my house and one downstairs!) and I'm currently working on a few presentation sets that have decorative blankets that go with them.  One of these blanket sets will be offered for sale when finished (the other is not pictured in this photo).  I'm trading one set to my friend Diane and she will get to pick which of these two sets she wants when I'm done, and the other will be a sales piece!  I'm just a trade happy fool this year, but what a great way to commit to growing my collection because that's so important right?...LOL!  I'm an addict...

]]> (Arabesque) Sat, 06 Feb 2016 14:32:26 GMT
New Pom halters + artistic photos!

First of all, aren't they beautiful?  These two horses are resin Arabians that were sculpted by Vicki Keeling.  They were painted by Shannon Mayfield, and then I got the honors of doing their hair.  The halters are also new and were made by me specially for these two beauties.  The chestnut is an "Abu" owned by Diane Finazzo, and the grey is a Bint Nazeem owned by me.  When Diane sent me Abu to be haired and I saw these two horses side by side they just begged to be photographed together.  I felt so inspired!  I asked her if I could keep Abu around long enough to make him and Nazeem some halters so that I could photograph them together just like this!  I do have more photos of these two that I will share in another blog.  I plan to take some more photos as time permits and just have some more fun with them before Abu heads home to Diane.

So this was also my first time making "pom poms" for an Arabian halter.  They are commonly used on real Arabian native halters in all sorts of colors and I've always wanted to try this.  Very similar to my trials with coming up with a way to make fringe, coming up with a way to do pom poms in this scale was also a challenge and took 3 failed attempts.  BUT, the good news is for those that are interested I do plan to share what I learned about making pom poms for model scale halters in a future tutorial because they are super fun to make when you know you're going to be able to actually use them!  LOL!

Today I also managed to accidentally capture Abu and Nazeem in these unique photos where rays of sunlight are coming down!  They look just magical don't they?  I also need to take some more photos of Abu's hair job to share.  He was an absolute delight to hair and I'm really happy with how his mane and tail came out since this was one of my first times mixing mohair colors to get this dimensional chestnut effect.

The red halter is currently for sale, and is made to fit large resins.  Contact me by email for details:

Thanks for reading & happy collecting!

Melissa :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Sat, 30 Jan 2016 19:58:45 GMT
Tutorial: How-to make fringe Tutorial #1: 

How to make fringe for model horse tack

It occurred to me recently that there aren't many options for model scale fringe out there.  I've heard from another tack maker who has worked with fringe quite a bit, that trying to find fringe in model scale is basically a search for vintage material.  For someone like me who hasn't yet really played with fringe, this bummed me out.  I had to find a way to make fringe for model horse tack, and this is what I came up with.  I'm sharing my method in case others may find it helpful.  This can be used on model horse saddles, blankets, collars, halters, brow bands, or even doll clothes.  The sky is the limit and the best part?  You can make it in just about any color that you want, any thickness that you want.  All it will take is just a little patience.  And if you are exploring the wonderful world of tack making or doll clothes, you should have plenty of that!

Okay, so in this tutorial I am adding trim to a model Arabian horse presentation blanket that I'm working on and I'm using DMC floss for the fringe.  


1. Tape (I use painters tape)

2. Glue (I use Fabri-tac)

3. Large needle

4. DMC Floss

5. Scissor

6. Ruler (optional)

  Figure out how much fringe you need by measuring the edge of your project.  For this I'm measuring the edge of my blanket.  A ruler is optional, you can just lay the thread along the edge and measure length that way.  Since I have two sides of this blanket that will need fringe my length needs to be at least double, however I am a firm believer in always having more than enough material in front of you so I have tripled the original length to give me extra length to work with--it's just easier!  This stuff is cheap so don't be afraid to have some wasted--it's better that than finding out you don't have enough length and have to start over.  Cut 3 strands of embroidery floss to the length you need and put a knot in the end.

  Tape your string to the edge of a table at the knotted end and do a nice semi loose braid.  What I mean by "semi loose" is don't do one that is super tight, and don't do one that is saggy, just a nice easy tension braid that you can pull a giant needle through.  Put a knot in the end of your braid.

  Cut a long piece of embroider floss and thread it through a large needle.  The needle I'm using is quite large and easy to thread with embroidery floss.  You will have to re-thread your needle multiple times through this process so find one that's easy for you to use.

  Start your needle by threading it through the side of your braid, down by the knot.

 Pull your thread through until there is about an inch of thread left.  This first thread you leave out is your the start of your fringe.

  Flip your braid over and bring the needle through the bottom of the braid so that your thread comes out right next to your first free thread.

 Pull the thread until that loop disappears, then flip your braid back over.  You've got your second strand of fringe now.

  Bring your needle up through the side of the braid again like you did when you started, and pull it up until you have a loop about the same length as your threads.

Flip your braid over again and bring your needle through the bottom of the braid so that your thread comes out right next to the loop.

Flip your braid back over, and pull your thread all the way through until all your threads are on one side again creating our "fringe" effect.  I recommend cutting the first loop at this point so that as you continue this pattern you are unable to accidentally pull on that loop.

Bring your needle up again to form another loop the same length as the rest of your threads then stop pulling.  Flip your braid over and bring the thread down through the bottom to continue your fringe pattern.  


Pull tight then flip your braid back over.  Cut your loop like you did before and continue with this up and down weave pattern until you get your fringe to the desired length you want.  Essentially it is like you are making "U" shapes woven into the braid if that makes sense.  These threads are not secure or knotted in any way.  What makes them secure and permanent in the end is when you glue the trim down onto your project.  For this reason I like to leave the fringe long until I get to that point to avoid accidentally pulling a thread out.  If you run out of thread as you go (and you will) just make sure you end your thread on a fringe end (such as in the last photo) and cut it off.  Cut another long thread and start it up again as you did at the beginning.

I've left my "working fringe" very long here as I go, you can save yourself some thread by doing this a little shorter.  I'm just wasteful with my thread so for this project I kept it long and easy to work with.

Once you get your trim to the length you need it go ahead and glue it down to the back side of your project.  For this part I stopped making my trim once I got it long enough for one side of my blanket, and I will continue making the trim after I glue this part on.  For glue I like to use Fabri-tac.  It's a clear glue that I buy from JoAnn fabrics, but I think just about any craft store has this.  It's a tacky, quick drying and really solid, just be careful because it can be a little string-y/glump-y/sticky to work with and thick, but the hold is worth it!  

Trim the extra edges off your trim after you glue it down.  Take your leftover piece and re-knot the end so you can continue your fringe making for the next piece.  I then trimmed my fringe down shorter.  I recommend waiting for your glue to dry completely and then you can re-trim your fringe by wetting it down to get a really nice precise cut along the length.  Just get rid of the excess first so you don't have a ton of thread to wet down.  I use a small cup of water and dip the fridge ends in it.  Be careful not to wet the fringe up to the glued spot.  You can even just wet your fingers and smooth the fringe down to get it damp enough to get a clean cut along that edge.

Hopefully now you have an idea of how you can utilize some fringe making in your own projects.  Experiment with different kinds of thread, such a rayon to get a nice silky effect.  Try mixing different colors together.  Or try a thinner effect by pulling some threads out of your embroidery floss before threading your fringe.  (Since there are six threads in a floss strand maybe try dividing your thread in half before you start "fringing" and you'll get a thinner effect.)  These are just some additional ideas of various effects you could get by using this technique.  Use this on model horse blankets, saddles, collars, headstalls, brow bands, or even doll clothes.  The sky is the limit!  If you have the patience and the creativity you can create anything!

Here is a look at how the finished set turned out.  I ended up doing more trimming to the blanket to get it more straight.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and found it helpful.  Feel free to email me for your input, and let me know what future tutorials you would be interested in seeing!  

Thanks for reading & happy collecting!

Melissa Halvas

]]> (Arabesque) Fri, 29 Jan 2016 04:11:35 GMT
My first custom! It was a new years resolution of mine that 2016 would be the year that I start customizing and painting models.  It's something I've always been interested in.  Last summer I bought a factory second Peter Stone Arabian body just for this purpose.  Today I dove in and started off by sanding off his mane and tail.  He is going to be a haired custom of course, and I moved his tail bone up for a slightly higher tail carriage.  I also made him a she by removing his manly parts so I have to refer to him as a her now.  I sanded down seams, removed logos, straightened out legs.  I also turned her head to the right and have to rebuild the head and neck.  Lastly, I decided to take the back leg and point that hoof back.  The hooves aren't completely level yet, but I figured out that when I do level them this is going to bring that back pointed leg up just a touch so it will be slightly off the ground which I like--happy accident!  I also plan to give her some major reconstructive surgery on her face, she'll get a new eyes, nose and mouth so that she's more refined and "type-y".  I may also flick an ear back, not sure on that yet.  Hopefully at some point in this process she will tell me what color she wants to be.  I'm already thinking of maybe trying a dapple grey since I have a fantastic "how to" DVD on pastels by Jaime Baker, but we shall see!  I might not get to work on her for another two weeks so there might not be any updates on her for awhile.

]]> (Arabesque) Sun, 10 Jan 2016 00:45:06 GMT
Meet the "Snow Princess" Snow Princess

A beautiful Arabian sculpture by Vicki Keeling, painted by Shannon Mayfield and finally haired by me!  Oh yeah, and unknowingly named by Diane Finazzo after I sent her pictures of this horse standing in the Minnesota snow.  She said "she looks like a snow princess" and so she was named.  The snow pictures didn't turn out so great, so these are not the snow pictures.  I also realized exposing my precious horse to the harsh Minnesota winter elements was probably not the greatest idea for her paint, though she seems no worse for the wear.

Vicki Keeling's Arabians are some of my absolute favorite in this hobby, there isn't a single sculpture of hers that I don't want!  After seeing this one in person, I'd love about 5 more.  This one might be my favorite Vicki sculpture ever.  She is also a very nice and large full size resin.  I had her painted to a light dapple grey by the talented Shannon Mayfield who managed to capture the soft expression of this horse's face with her work.  And finally, I got the honors of putting the icing on the cake by doing the hair on this horse.  I used white mohair, and this particular color had a lot of natural wave in it so the end effect gave her mane and tail a very ripply waved look.  She originally started with a different forelock that was more full and all pulled to the front, and I just decided it was overwhelming on her face, so I tore it out and got it right on the second try with a more subtle forelock that falls partly down her face and then some is pulled to her off-side.

I'm currently working on hairing another Keeling resin called "Abu", also painted by Shannon, owned by my friend Diane.  He is a gorgeous bright chestnut with a mixed mohair mane and tail.  I will be able to share finished photos of him pretty soon, probably next week sometime.  Diane has graciously agreed to let me hang onto Abu long enough to make him and Bint Nazeem some native halters because I so need a picture of these two together before they are to part ways!  Needless to say I am one smitten owner of one gorgeous Bint Nazeem and I just need more!  And I cannot wait to play "dress up" with these awesome horses!

]]> (Arabesque) Sat, 09 Jan 2016 23:37:54 GMT
NEW! Customize-able Arabian Rope Halter Yesterday I laid down to take a nap, I was naturally my mind kept me awake thinking about what kind of tack I should be making next.  I've done something similar to this before with remove-able tassels but the style of the halter was quite different.  I wanted to come up with something fun, simple and affordable that maybe everybody could like.  So here we have it, the "customize-able Arabian rope halter".  These are now order-able in any colors...more information on price and custom orders coming soon in another blog!  If you are interested in ordering one or a few, you can start ordering today!

Email: Melissa @

]]> (Arabesque) Sun, 27 Dec 2015 17:16:11 GMT
Halter Sale! One week only! Halter sale!  

For one week only all my halters are on sale, buy any 2 for $50!

In the Nazeer halters I still have 3 of each color to sell and a couple of crystal halters left as well!  See my most current ads and what's still available by checking HERE! 

You can also email me directly at:

Thanks for reading & Happy Collecting!

Melissa :0)

]]> (Arabesque) Wed, 16 Dec 2015 02:52:27 GMT
More new Nazeer/Morafic Halters Finished! This morning I was finally able to finish my other Nazeer/Morafic halters that I've been working on!  Like the black and white ones I just did, I also did 3 of each color in these too!

Here we have a soft blue and off-white combination...

And secondly we have a greenish teal and off-white combination.....

These are all currently for sale, if you are interested in purchasing one contact me!

I will be making more of these but not in this exact style or same colors.  On the next batch of halters I will be taking a bit of a different approach.  The first batch of 9 is a more "simplified" version of this style so these halters are a bit cheaper, the next ones will be more detailed and probably be a bit more in price just FYI!

]]> (Arabesque) Tue, 08 Dec 2015 19:02:53 GMT